Better wake up early! Waking up early is key to squeezing everything into one day. I know, I know, waking up early in Spain? Unheard of right? Andalusia is known for “being lazy” and loving their “siesta” which by no means is false, but the tourist attractions open with the tourists in mind, not the locals.
After having a quick bite to eat on the obscurely quiet streets (Ps, appreciate this time, it is the only time where the streets in Seville will be this silent and bare) head over to the Real Alcázar Seville.
The Real Alcázar opens its gates at 9:30 am throughout the year and costs only €2 for students but a whomping €9.50 for adults. Tickets can be purchased online, but there is no discount for doing this. There is a separate line for reserved tickets… so if you are traveling during peak season, you should look into this option, otherwise, just show up!
My first impression of the Real Alcázar was a bit underwhelming. But keep in mind, I had just returned from a visit to the Alhambra and General Life in Granada… and nothing can quite compete with that. I would recommend stopping by the gift shop to your right after the entrance to pick up a free map even if you don’t plan on using the Audio Guide attached, otherwise you can meander around aimlessly, no one’s judging.
Back to my negative first impression, don’t worry, it changed! So for a bit of history, the Real Alcázar of Seville is the oldest Royal Palace in use in Europe. Yes, this means what you think it means, don’t worry I googled it, Spain’s royal family still uses the Palace as their primary residence when in Seville to this day. Ok, that was only one sentence, but still, history!
The walls are crumbling a bit and the tile displays are not as impressive as the ones in Granada, but if you want to escape the city for a moment…or the whole day, head to the gardens. I felt like I had left Spain and entered Puerto Rico with the incredibly tall palm trees swaying in the breeze, the scent of citrus from the orange trees, and the sounds of running water from the many fountains and sculptures sporadically placed throughout the gardens.
Best part, there is no one there to kick you out! Pack your breakfast if you are running a bit late or a mid-morning snack, relax for a few hours, and enjoy the rare serenity in the gardens.
Just across the way from the Alcázar, past the horse drawn carriages and “very anxious to give you a ride” conductors is the Seville Cathedral.
This Cathedral has a few claims to fame: The third largest Church in the world, the largest Gothic Cathedral in the world, and my favorite, the home to the burial of Christopher Columbus (yes, the one that found America).
Additionally, don’t be confused like I was. Maybe I’m not the brightest bulb, but I was under the impression that the Giralda Bell Tower was a completely different site to see, but in fact, it is the tallest tower of the Cathedral (duh). Included in your entrance fee to the Cathedral is your entrance to the Bell Tower. Enjoy the views, avoid the wind, and cover you ears if you happen to be up there at a quarter hour mark…
Tip: If you are strapped for cash, go to mass! The schedule is posted on their website and attending mass is free.
I wasn’t over enthused by my lunch in Seville so I won’t go out of my way to recommend Los Coloniales. Despite being ranked very highly on Tripadvisor, we waited for over an hour for a table, received rude service, and although the food was cheap and traditional, it was no better than average.
Instead, I would head to a place we stumbled upon for our dinner, Postiguillo. Postiguillo is very close to the cathedral and a bit tucked away on Calle Dos de Mayo. Consider yourself warned: The walls are decorated with bull heads from nearly all angles lending a very Spanish ambience but not exactly to the liking of everyone, aka my vegetarian sister. She sat facing a wall with no bull heads and was extremely happy with her verduras surtidos. She has been living in Spain for two months and raved that the vegetable platter was the best yet!
We also ordered tapas including tuna steak, mushrooms a la plancha, and artichokes a la plancha (a la plancha = grilled). All tapas and plates were served in large portions and a jarra of “on the sweeter side” sangria (about 7 glasses) only cost €10.
After lunch, we made our way by foot to Seville’s infamous Plaza de España. Plaza de España is about a 20 minute walk from the Cathedral, but if you are feeling adventurous, in love, want to ride in style, or just plain lazy, you can always take one of the many horse drawn carriages waiting outside the Cathedral.
Plaza de España is beautiful. It is extravagant, it is colorful, it is large, and it is busy. We spent some time walking around, reading all of the cities tiled on the walls, and mostly taking photos from every bridge, underpass, and balcony in the plaza. Afterwards, we strolled through el Parque de María Luisa just bordering the Plaza (it can’t be missed) and after dodging more than a few oncoming horses, made our way back to the center.
If you have the time and are interested in bull fighting, the Maestranza Bullring is very centrally located. We did not squeeze in the time to go on a tour and there were no bullfights scheduled during our time in Seville, but my sister, my roommate and I had the sudden motivation to sneak in the open backdoor and accidentally join a tour just as it was ending.
We did not exactly blend in seeing as the tour group was all Asian and we are three very white girls. The tour guide looked dismayed but it was not intentional I swear! We just saw an opportunity (an open door) and walked through it.
Of course, the most exciting and authentic way to see a bullring is to skip the tour and go to a fight! But the only way to see a bullfight in Seville is to plan your trip during the bullfighting season.
The season begins on Easter, is at it’s most vibrant two weeks after Easter during the one week festival called the Fería de Abril, and continues throughout the summer. Otherwise, tours cost €4 for students and 7 for adults.
I cannot recommend enough El Mercado Lonja del Barranco. This market just recently opened its doors in November 2014 and with a super modern vibe and lively atmosphere most reminiscent of the ambience at El Mercado de San Miguel, Madrid it should not be missed.
The crowd is young and vibrant and whether you want a before dinner drink, a light snack, an entire meal, or an after dinner dessert, you will find something you can’t resist here.
Have you visited Seville? What would you do with only 1 day in Seville?
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