It’s no question that Chicago has some of the hottest dinner spots in America. But can Chicago brunch like New York City? The short answer is, yes. The Publican serves their seasonal brunch menu to hungry diners every Saturday and Sunday. If the line out the door isn’t enough indication to how popular The Publican is, maybe the three week wait on Open Table could give you some insight.
The Publican is a beer centric Hofbrauhaus in the opulent German tradition. The Publican’s brunch menu pays homage to beer, pork and other German classics with a not so traditional spin on American breakfast staples. All menu items are chosen with attention to sustainable and eco-friendly farming. A select group of suppliers provide hand-selected fish, dairy, pork and produce to The Publican. The dishes are prepared to highlight the farm fresh produce and accentuate the proteins. From classic German Pork Schnitzel to house-made waffles, the ever-changing brunch menu reflects the best local and seasonal foods available.
The dishes are constantly changing, but fresh oysters from the coast and German favorites like weisswurst, freshly baked pretzels, and spicy pork rinds will always stick around. I ordered the Mushroom Strata with swiss chard, cheddar cheese, piri piri sauce, parmesan cheese, and pepitas. Basically, the best savory bread pudding you could ever ask for. A perfect balance of eggs, bread, mushrooms, and flavor. A bit of spice and a divine sweetness. No salt or pepper needed here! My fellow brunchers ordered The Waffles, the Pork Schnitzel with grits, banana peppers, and a sunny side up egg, and the Apple Salad. As sides we added two orders of hashbrowns. They are that good!
The Waffle is served with honey butter and rhubarb jam. The waffle itself was a light Belgian style waffle, crispy on the outside and light and fluffy in the center. The rhubarb jam was light and not overly sweet. I wanted a bottle of it to take home. I didn’t need the honey butter, but my sister seemed to enjoy it.
The Apple Salad with ricotta, cucumber, cashews and basil is the only “green” item on the menu. The Publican is not somewhere you go when you are on a diet. The Apple salad was jam packed with melt in your mouth flavors. The urfa vinaigrette tied the entire dish together, making for a delectable brunch time salad.
The Hashbrowns are a must order! A round disk as large as the circumference of the plate they are served on, and most reminiscent of a frisbee. Shredded potatoes that are crispy on the outside and almost creamy in the center. Who could resist a potato frisbee?
Need a cocktail with your brunch? Look no further. The Publican boasts an extensive international beer list featuring over 100 beers. The Publican’s renowned beer list is augmented by their list of Libations. Their House Famous Bloody Marys and Smokin’ Marias are served with a beer back as a little reminder that you are indeed in a beer hall. I was pleasantly surprised by the Tea of Palma. An Aperol, tropical melon, iced tea and sparkling wine combination served in a narrow glass with a thin slice of lemon. Slightly bitter but moderately sweet after the first sip. Drinking not your thing? How about a cup of tea, some of their exclusively brewed coffee, or a fresh squeezed juice?
Dining at The Publican is not only about the food. The Publican was designed by Thomas Schlesser. He used rustic decor and minimalist style to replicate a Classic 16th Century Beer Hall. The showstopper in the room is nothing other than the large walnut communal table. It is here where most diners are seated in high back walnut chairs among their friends and other guests. In addition to the communal table, there are a few booths that line the room for a more private dining experience. Various photos of pigs hang on the wall, giving you a little insight into the menu. The kitchen is partially open so that diners can be delighted by the hustle and bustle backstage.
Another backstage favorite? The bathrooms. It’s not too often that I discuss bathrooms in restaurant reviews, but this time I couldn’t resist. The Publican has a communal sink area just outside of their individual floor to ceiling bathroom stalls that looks more like something you would find at a spa than a restaurant bathroom. They also provide lotion. A+, Publican.
At this Fulton Market favorite, weekend brunch is just as popular, and quite possibly even more delicious, than dinner. Next time you are in Chicago, stop by The Publican for a beer and a meal you will not soon forget! Prost!
The Publican, 837 W. Fulton Market
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