Buck and Breck Berlin is a pretentious secret doorway speakeasy wedged between a seemingly desolate Doris Bistro and a quiet police station. The discreet entrance is typically only accessible by pressing a buzzer marked “BAR” on the wall outside. When we arrived, poorly dressed and unprepared, we were hesitantly greeted by a young doorman in a wide-brimmed cap. He was backed by an abandoned looking storefront with a flashing neon light that read “closed”. He sized us up, and told us in a monotone voice to wait a few moments for a few seats to clear. Within seconds, four jolly looking individuals filed out and we were reluctantly led inside. He hung our coats just after the entrance and guided us towards our seats.
There were only 14 seats lining an ultra sleek black bar with one bartender as the main attraction. The whole experience was like a performance, well rehearsed and meticulous. We were handed the Prohibition-inspired cocktail menu, poured a short glass of water and left to make our decision.
I quickly noticed the menu at Buck and Breck was heavy on all the liquors I can’t stomach: whisky, cognac, scotch and brandy. Oh how I wish I could take back that night seven years ago when I vomited in my shoe (I apologize for the visual). For those of us who simply lack the stomach for dark liquors, there are a few cocktails made with champagne and a generous amount prepared with dry gin. Tequila and vodka lovers best drink elsewhere.
After placing our order, the show began. We were lucky enough to have the owner and head bartender, Gonçalo de Sousa Monteiro, as our mixologist. Every night he uses his bar as his stage. He gracefully poured champagne as rapidly as he shook the cocktail shaker. He never once glanced at a menu or a note card. He did everything precisely and with care.
I ordered the old school Aviation cocktail prepared with dry gin, maraschino liqueur, crème de violette, and lemon juice and served in a classic martini glass. I would’ve snapped a photo or two, but cameras and phones are strictly prohibited inside. This is a cocktail you sip on, not chug. As someone who prefers tequila or vodka cocktails, the flavor were impressive but the preparation was the star of the show.
Some may complain the bar lacks personality, but that’s what makes it unique. Every action and reaction is part of an elaborate performance. The impartial doorman, the feisty mixologist, the dark atmosphere, and the hushed conversations all added to the show. If I ever have the opportunity to snag one of the 14 seats at Buck and Breck again, I may just do so.
Buck and Breck, Brunnenstraße 177, Nightly 19-late
*Feature Photo adopted from Buck and Breck Website*
