Hiking in Slovenia offers an experience far more unique than other popular European hiking destinations. With its high Julian Alps, crystal-clear Soca river, majestic Lake Bled and vast Triglav National park, it is popular with hikers, skiers, rafters and families alike. I was excited to explore Slovenia and all it had to offer. Here’s everything you need to know to go hiking in Slovenia.
- Preparing to hike in Slovenia
- Day 1 – The Heathen Maiden
- Day 2 – Trenta to Triglav Base Camp
- Day 3 – Summiting Triglav at Dawn and The Seven Lakes
- Day 4 – The descent
Preparing to hike in Slovenia
Planning a hiking trip in Slovenia proved to be more challenging than planning other European hikes, like those in the Dolomites in Italy or on the Fishermen’s Trail in Portugal. It was difficult to find relevant information in English. There are two main sites we used, moonandhoneytravel and slovenia-trips. Neither of which I’m affiliated with, but they were great resources. Julie also bought a map and a book about hiking in Slovenia. The map is a must.
Weather
When planning to hike in Slovenia’s Triglav national park or Julian Alps, take weather seriously. In June, snowbanks can obstruct trails. Most mountain huts open only on July 1st. For safer and more enjoyable hiking, plan your hike between mid-July and mid-September. Always prepare for sudden changing temperatures. From 30°C (90°F) to near freezing—and sudden thunderstorms. Check the weather forecast each day at the hut and pack accordingly.
What to pack
We followed my trusty 3-4 day European hiking packing list. Perfect for hut-to-hut hiking in Slovenia. Many trails in Slovenia feature via ferrata sections, so we packed our via ferrata kits. Due to the snow, we had to reroute several times and didn’t use the via ferrata kits much. This was a bummer. But again, better safe than sorry.
The hike we chose is difficult and requires a full via ferrata kit and helmet. It’s important to be prepared. Experience hiking on scree, scrambling or even some rock climbing is certainly preferred. There are of course plenty of milder hikes, so do your research before embarking on any trail.
Getting there
We flew into Ljubljana from Amsterdam and spent the day exploring the city. We rented cars and drove to Lake Bled around 3 pm. We’d be staying there after the hike. A private transfer took us to the Koča na Gozdu hut for the night. This set us up perfectly for an early start the next morning. The hut is just off the main road. They offer a cozy room for six with a private bathroom and shower. They also offer half and full board options, and don’t forget your sleeping liner!
Hiking in Slovenia in 4 days
I’ll walk you through the plan vs. reality the best I can. Due to the snow, we had to change the route many times. Hope you can still follow! Approximate intended route from Moon & Honey Travel.
Day 1: Hiking in Slovenia
The adventure begins. We left the hut just before 7 am, venturing down the road and onto the trail. A serene wooded forest gave way to switchbacks that led us up into the Julian Alps. Two hours in, we stopped at the Postman’s Lodge (Postarski dom) on the Vrsic Pass at 1688m for breakfast bars and an espresso.
We chatted briefly with the staff about the hiking conditions. Yesterday some hikers had made it to Razor mountain and had to turn back. The snow made it impassable. Despite that, we chose to take the risk.
The Heathen Maiden
As we left the Postman’s Lodge, the face of the Heathen Maiden on Mount Prisojnik became visible. Legend has it that a mystical nymph and a chamois once lived in these mountains. If you peer from a distance, you’ll see the face remarkably clearly.
Trail mix up
We accidentally strayed off the marked red and white circle path, and ended up in a steep boulder field. Avoid this mistake—it’s unsafe and harms the natural environment. If you can’t find the trail markers easily, check your map (we used Komoot) and look a little harder. In this case, the marker was just behind a boulder. This detour cost us a bit of time, and nearly a new friendship – but what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, right?
Easy sailing and the turnaround
The rest of the day was easy sailing, as the trail levelled out. There were even trees to protect us from the sun. About three hours in, we hoped to continue to Razor mountain, but upon meeting two descending hikers we soon realized it was a no-go. They explained that the via ferratta was impassable. They showed a few photos and convinced us to turn back too. It was simply too risky.
Night 1 at the Postman’s Lodge
With resistance, we traced our steps back to the Postman’s Lodge (Postarski dom). Once we got service, Nadine called ahead to reserve a room. We had a private room with space for 8. We found the stay as perfect as could be in the mountains. The family running it are friendly, and they have indoor toilets, hot showers (€4 for 3 minutes), WiFi, half-board and a la carte options. We opted for the set menu for dinner and chose to skip breakfast and get an early start on the trail.
Intended journey: Vršič Pass to Pogačnikov dom na Kriških podih (9 km, 6.5 hours, +1269 m / -855 m), Komoot
Day 2: Hiking in Slovenia
We left the Postman’s Lodge at 7 am to catch the 7:35 bus to Trenta. Trenta is the closest neighboring town. We could get to where we intended for night two, taking a different trail up.
Unfortunately, the bus hadn’t started running yet for the season. So, Ben from the lodge kindly drove us to Trenta in his pickup. This was after we woke up early and waited for the bus on the curb with the sheep for an hour plus…
Trenta
The drive was about 20 minutes, but all downhill. Which meant of course, we’d need to climb all that way back up. Ben dropped us off by the trailhead. Some of the group wanted coffee and toilets, so we strolled into town. Nothing but the mini market was open. They had a decent selection of cheese, a few fresh pastries and lots of snack options. Plus the world’s worst machine coffee outside.
For a toilet, we needed to wait until after 10 am when the Tourist Information Center opened, which we did. There is also a water fountain at the center of town under the big tree to refill for free. Best to do so, as once you reach Triglav, water costs €6 a bottle.
Once everyone was settled, we turned around and hiked back to the trailhead. The sun was shining and the air was still. This was the least enjoyable part of the entire four days of hiking in Slovenia.
Luckily, after the first hour or so, we reached some shade. Soon, we crossed a valley and a river. Just to the right of the river was a trail marker, difficult to distinguish. I spotted it and we began our ascent.
Journey to Koča na Doliču 2151m
The day was rather athletic, but passed quickly. It’s generally safe, though some sections are more exposed and steep. There are often pegs and cables to hold onto. The views get better the higher you go.
We crossed boulder fields and snow patches and rested for a snack half way up. Eventually, the landscape opened wide to a scramble.
We took a photo-op before making a sharp right to continue towards Koča na Doliču pod Triglavom, Hut 33, at the base of Triglav, 2151m. We spotted an ibex and made friends followed by deeper snow.
Soon, we arrived at Koča na Doliču pod Triglavom.
Intended journey: 6 hrs / 9.4km +1300m / -1300m. Where we had intended to sleep on night 2: Pogačnikov dom na Kriških podih (2050 m) Hut 20. You can read more about this route here, stage 2.
Actual journey from Trenta to Koča na Doliču: 5.5 hrs / 11.1 km +1524m / -0m, Komoot
Night 2 at Koča na Doliču pod Triglavom
The hut is remote, but comfortable. Sleeping is tight. There are no indoor toilets, no showers and no running water. Be prepared.
For dinner, we had the choice between four dishes, most chose goulash. The food was tastier than expected, and they have wine, beer and radlers for sale. The hut is cash only, so it’s a lot easier if you settle everything online in advance and only pay for water and snacks there.
Day 3: Summiting Triglav and The Seven Lakes
Summiting Triglav is totally optional. Note, it will add about 4-5 hours to your day depending on the conditions. If you are an experienced hiker, make sure to plan this in. In my opinion, apart from the Seven Lakes, this was the best part of our entire experience hiking in Slovenia.
I decided to put this section in a different post because I had so many photos I wanted to share along with it. To read about our experience summiting Triglav head here.
The Seven Lakes Valley Hike
I knew Day 3 was going to be long, but I had no clue how long. Yup, after our morning summiting Triglav, we had a few more mishaps to account for.
Feeling confident, accomplished and nourished, we strolled out on what we thought was the best route towards Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih, it’s called Skozi Rizo. Little did we know, it is very exposed and that day regrettably, impassable due to snow. Do not take this route. Even without snow, the locals say it is not safe.
We hiked for an hour, took a fabulous photo on the ridge (perhaps the best of the trip) and turned back.
Two hours lost.
We reset once more, and meandered behind the hut to the high route, summiting Kanjavec. After only 30 minutes in, we realized that no one had checked with the staff if this trail was open either. We arrived at some snow banks and it began to rain. Cold and tired already, we made a group decision, with some secret tears and secret anger, to turn back once more.
One hour lost. Third times a charm?
We triple and quadruple checked the way this time.
Back in higher spirits, and acting as a team, we zigged and zagged on lots of snow and loose gravel. This part of the trail was more like Mars than the rest. Open, vast. I felt small. We spotted many ibex in the distance, and no people at all.
As we got lower, the terrain began to change. I saw what I called Pride Rock in the distance, and eventually one of the seven lakes I was promised, though unimpressive.
The Seven Lakes
After the unimpressive lake, the hiking became absolutely enchanting. I don’t know if it was the exhaustion, but I felt like I was on a mushroom trip.
The seven lakes trail is incredibly special. The lakes are the least dramatic and enticing part. There are hundreds of types of alpine flowers, majestic limestone backdrops, and lush greenery all around. This was the most beautiful part of hiking in Slovenia. Pure magic. You have to see it to believe it.
The path was stone and hard on the feet. Eventually, we arrived at a third lake, and just behind it was the mountain hut.
Intended journey: 5 hrs/ 9 km +500m/-1000m, Komoot.
Actual journey: Let’s just all agree, it took us quite a bit longer and a few more kilometers than that.
Night 3: Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih
We slept at Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih (1685 m) Hut 35. This is a very large hut. They have indoor toilets and running water, but no showers and bed linens are not provided. They also have a free water fountain outside.
We went with half-board. The dinner was average, the apple strudel was tasty, and the breakfast was generous. We were absolutely exhausted and zonked out early.
Day 4: Final stretch
Finally, we decided to cut our final hike short due to impending rain. We hiked three hours towards Bohinj, rather than the full 6. Lord did we make the right choice. The downpour was torrential. Lightning, thunder – all of it. We were only in the rain for 30 minutes, but we were totally soaked, even my underwear was wet.
We took the bus to town, called a taxi, ordered some hot chocolate and a sinful dessert, and headed to our hotel in Lake Bled.
What a way to end!
Intended journey: 6hrs/ 16 km +500m/-1500m, Komoot
Wrapping up hiking in Slovenia
Hiking in Slovenia was an adventure filled with the unexpected. Slovenia’s Triglav Mountain and national park is breathtaking. And if you don’t want quite this much adventure, there are many other trails for you. I hope you’ll take the trip to Slovenia too!
