Morocco has been tucked into my back pocket for years. I was waiting for the perfect opportunity to visit the desert and Marrakech all in one trip. Finally.
The flights were getting pricy, so we flew into Agadir instead of Marrakech. Unfortunately, Agadir is a cement port with a few once-upon-a-time luxury hotels facing the Atlantic. Let down. Don’t take our lead. Skip Agadir and spend extra on the flights. You won’t regret it.
Agadir to Ait Ben-Haddou – Day 1
After three days in hazy Agadir, we met our Sahara desert tour guide for a three-night trip to the Sahara desert, final destination, Marrakech.
Ait Ben-Haddou
About five hours into day one, we reached our first stop, Ait Ben-Handdou, just in time for a late lunch at Hotel La Baraka. This was the first of many similar meals surrounded by similar looking tourists: Moroccan salad, tajine or kebab and a bowl of fresh melon and grapes. No complaints, it was actually delicious. After a leisurely lunch, we met two other travelers and our local tour guide outside the restaurant. He took us up the winding hills to admire his hometown.
Ait Ben-Haddou is one of Morocco’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It is a fortified village along the ancient caravan route between the Sahara desert and Marrakech. In the old days, groups of people traveled these roads on camel back to trade their goods – silk, jewelry, spices and even animals. Nowadays, the city is not the center of trade, but a popular tourist stop. The buildings across the bridge and over the dry river are called a ksar. They look like red clay castles stuck together with craft glue. Today, only a few families reside in the ksar. Most have moved to the other side of the river into more modern homes.
Ait Ben-Haddou is the most famous ksar in the Ouarzazate region. The buildings are preserved well, but this old place is famous for something else. Over a dozen Blockbusters were filmed here including: Gladiator, Alexander, Babel, Prince of Persia and most recently Game of Thrones.
Auberge Panorama
An hour later, we hopped back in the car for two more hours. As the sun set, we arrived at Auberge Panorama. The photos on their website are outdated, this hotel was clean and beautiful. It is perched on a cliff overlooking a red valley. That evening we enjoyed a traditional meal on the terrace and went to our balcony to play dominoes and have a drink before bed.
Sahara Desert Tour – Day 2
The next morning, we were off around 10am.
We made our first stop at a local market. The villagers meet here weekly to buy and sell literally everything. This was probably the most authentic experience we had in the desert. We were the only foreigners in the market and stuck out like sore thumbs.
Everything was for sale: livestock, eggs, rice, household goods, used clothing, new shoes, snacks, dates and more. The prices were dirt cheap yet the locals bartered over pennies.
Todra Gorges
Next up, the Todra Gorges – limestone river canyons. At their highest point, they are over 1,300 feet high. I have to be honest, I was expecting a lot more. There is a paved road and some stalls selling touristy items along one side. Though the rocks are impressive, the area has become a typical tourist trap.
Dressing up like a Berber
Tourist trap number two, but this one was fun. We dressed up in traditional Berber clothing and almost peed our pants laughing. In the 12th century, Arabs conquered this land. The Berber people were forced to adopt the Muslim dress code. They covered their heads and wore long loose tunics that went to their ankles. The colors are vibrant and the patterns, intricate.
All this fun was finally building up to the main event – a night in the desert. Part 2 of the Sahara desert tour – to be continued.
