Antico Caffe Greco is the oldest, and quite possibly the most expensive cafe in Rome. Rome may not run on Dunkin’™, but it sure does run on coffee.
For this reason, there are ample bars lining the cobblestones streets catering to the Roman lifestyle. One of the most famous coffee bars is Antico Caffe Greco.
The history behind Antico Caffe Greco
Antico Caffe Greco started serving fine coffee and delectable pastries in 1760 on the glamorous Via dei Condotti just across from the Spanish Steps. The establishment is famous for having served some of the most notable artists, politicians, and writers.
Shelley, Keats, Wagner, Twain and even Buffalo Bill have enjoyed an espresso or two seated in one of the many alcoves. Famous faces such as these are framed In between the hand-painted frescoes and classical paintings that coat the walls.
Nowadays, tourists seated on red velvet upholstered cushions linger over tiny marble tables cluttered with gold-rimmed china and decadent pastries.
Stepping beyond the populous foyer to admire the 18th-century belle époque style and bask in the history between the dining room walls is a must.
Antico Caffe Greco today
But if you really want to experience an authentic Roman coffee, I am sad to say, you should skip the increased prices, poor service, and beauty in the tea rooms. Instead, squeeze your way to the front of the crowded bar in the foyer.
Let me explain. Unlike their neighbors in Spain who linger for hours over a thimble-sized espresso, Italians drink their coffee fast, strong and standing up. Reasonably, what we call a “cafe”, Italians call a “bar”.
The bar in the foyer is the place to go if you want to drink a “caffe” like a local. Indoors is better for thick wallets, exhausted feet, and people watching.
No matter where you decide to gulp down your caffe, beware: Italians only drink cappuccinos before noon. The heavy milk and foam is considered to be a “well balanced” breakfast for the Romans but afternoon, they say it may prevent proper digestion. Possibly a myth, possibly the truth… but to avoid the awkward glances and ridicule, stick with an espresso during the afternoon hours.
So, is it a tourist trap? Is the coffee even that good? What about those thirteen euro slices of pie? Well, I do have to say that, yes, it is a tourist trap… but a damn good one at that. The coffee is average for Rome (which is superior to American coffee any day) but the pastries are better. Be prepared to pay €8 for an average cup-a-joe and €13 for a fruit tart in the dining room. Can you get better coffees and pastries elsewhere? Absolutely.
Antico Caffe Greco is all about the atmosphere and history, after all, it is the oldest cafe in Rome. Treat it like a trip to a museum, not a trip to your local Starbucks™. Save yourself a buck (or 7), stand at the bar, and sip your coffee like the locals. Afterward, head farther away from the Spanish Steps for a true taste of modern-day Rome with a lower price tag.
Via Condotti, 86 Rome, Italy
