About Port de Soller
Port de Soller is a small village on the west coast of Mallorca. It’s known for Instagram worthy sunsets, the only sandy beach on this side of the island and easy access to the famed Tramuntana mountain range.
Before opening a tunnel in the 1990s to cut through the Tramuntana mountains, it was very difficult to get here. Port de Soller is still undeveloped in comparison to the rest of Mallorca. It’s a simple port with restaurants and a few hotels.
Getting to Port de Soller
The easiest way to get from Palma airport is by car. We rented a car in advance but had an issue. The driver needed to have their license for at least one year. Both my mom and I had had ours renewed recently, so they wouldn’t give us our car. Stressed, we rented on the spot from Europcar without a problem. Once we had the car, the drive was easy. It was just 30 minutes to Port de Soller.
There’s also a train from Palma to Soller. Soller is Port de Soller’s inland and slightly larger counterpart. The train takes an hour and runs six times per day in the summer and four times per day in the winter. From Soller, you hop on the iconic tram dating back to 1912. The tram is the first electric tram in all of Mallorca. For €7 you can ride the tram in front of the port… or for free you can take photos of the tram as it chugs by. A combo ticket costs €32.
Where to stay in Port de Soller
We stayed at the beachfront Hotel Esplendido overlooking the Port. The hotel was built in 1954 and is one of Mallorca’s most notable places to stay. The beach is across the street but a lounge chair by one of the two pools is the place to be. The pools are nestled in the manicured hilled gardens towering over the Port.
Eating at Hotel Esplendido
The breakfast was my favorite part. Served in both the bistro and the breakfast room, options were limitless. Freshly squeezed juices, made-to-order omelets and eggs, yogurt with fruit and cereal, baked goods and pastries, fresh bread with meats and cheeses, and of course some classic Spanish dishes like Tortilla Española.
The bistro and cocktail bar sits at the heart of the port. Popular with those passing by and hotel guests alike. The bistro serves lunch, dinner, snacks and cocktails.
The hotel features a vintage library with a record player and books left from guests from all the ends of the earth. I had just finished The Handmaid’s Tale, and was lucky enough to snag two books to pass my beach days: Elephants Can Remember, a classic murder mystery from Agatha Christie, and quite possibly the best book I read this year: The Adversary by Emmanuel Carrere. It’s a truly enticing novel of deception, I couldn’t put it down.
Where to eat and drink in Port de Soller
We only had a few meals in Port de Soller, but to be honest, I was unimpressed. The food is nowhere near that of Madrid’s El Mercado de San Miguel or Barcelona’s La Boqueria.
Bistro at Hotel Espléndido
Our first night, we ate on the port at the Hotel Esplendido. Like most of the other eateries, this one caters to tourists palettes, offering a little of this and a bit of that. While not authentic, my poke bowl was certainly tasty and the grilled octopus was a creative twist on one of my favorites.
Ses Oliveres
For a more traditional meal, we went to Ses Oliveres. The service was excellent. We sat by the water and people watched. We split the Calamares Andaluz, lightly fried calamari, and the fish of the day, a Dorado, fillet table side.
Restaurant Randemar
One evening we enjoyed delicious cocktails at Randemar while watching the sunset. Our cocktails, though pricey for Spain, were outstanding. I will admit I went for my inner 18-year-old and opted for a piña colada served inside a gold pineapple. No regrets.
Beaches near Port de Soller
This side of Mallorca isn’t known for white sandy beaches. Instead, you follow narrow twisty turvy hairpin bend roads to the sea until you happen rocky inlets.
Cala Tuent
Cala Tuent was the more remote of the beaches we visited. Due to the long twisty turvy drive, this beach is free from tourists and easy to park at.
The beach is mostly pebbles and gravel. The water is crystal clear and the whole strip is backdropped by pine forests and the Tramuntana mountains. It’s a great spot for a long swim.
Keep in mind there are no bathrooms or restaurants. We spent about two hours here before traveling on to Sa Calobra.
Sa Calobra
I’d argue this is not a beach at all. The car park was nearly full and cost a staggering €6.50 per hour. From the parking lot we walked towards the beach. It’s very small and tucked into the tiny village. If you aren’t alert you’ll completely miss it.
The village is covered with empty one-star self-service restaurants with zero diners. About 10 minutes walk away is the canyon Torrent de Pareis. You have to travel through man-made rock tunnels to get there. Once you pass through the tunnels, the canyon opens to the sea on one end and a dry river on the other. Completely covered in pebbles, there’s easy access to the ocean if you can pass through the hordes of tourists.
If you have the time, you can also take the 5-mile (8km) trek into the limestone canyon.
Cala Deía
Yet another treacherous ride, Cala Deia is located not too far from the village of Deia. We stopped here on our drive back to Palma for our flight.
Getting to the beach can be tricky. The last five minutes of the drive is along a one-lane two-way road. During peak season, the locals told us traffic is more regulated, but when we visited, it was a free for all.
The beach is tiny and rocky, but the sea is a bright inviting blue. There’s a path at one end that leads to an old watchtower that would protect the coast during ancient times. There are two small restaurants, Ca’n Lluc and Ca’s Patro March. We ate at the first.
Ca’n Lluc Restaurant at Cala Deia
This was my favorite meal in Mallorca. The pulpo was perfectly cooked and the wine was light and refreshing. Since we’d recently had breakfast, we shared Pulpo Gallego and a salad. The prices were very reasonable for the view, and the shade was a nice respite from the beating sun.
Villages near Port de Soller
Fornatulx
After visiting Sa Calobra and Cala Tuent, we stopped at Fornatulx. Fornatulx has been voted the most beautiful village in Spain on a few occasions. We walked the full villages in under one hour. There is a cozy main square and a few hidden allies tucked behind. The stone houses are set amongst orange and lemon groves giving the whole village a romantic aura.
Deia
Similar to Fornatulx, Deia is a stonewashed village with brightly colored shutters. It sits up in the hills. Off in the distance, the sea meets the sky. The most interesting part of Deia was the journey up to the church and cemetery. Along the way, you pass murals of the stations of the cross within the stone.
Valldemossa
I’d skip this one if you don’t have time. This town was more lively but less unique. There were many more cafes, restaurants, and of course, tourists. It was similar in colors to the others but in a valley, so much flatter with wider streets.
That’s it for my time in Port de Soller, Mallorca. I have to say visiting the small villages reminded me of two other Spanish villages I’ve come to love. The first is a surprising one. On the neighboring island of Ibiza, the old town is quite possibly the most beautiful village I’ve visited in Spain. A close second is the famous Toledo. I visited both about two years ago and would love to go back.
1 Comment
Take me back 😘