Rock climbing at Gjipe Beach Albania

I went rock climbing at Gjipe beach last summer and absolutely loved it. Gjipe beach is a true summer paradise for climbers and non-climbers alike.

Nearly every blogger who has been to Albania quotes Gjipe beach as the most beautiful in Albania. I was excited to find out that the very same beach was also one of the three climbing spots listed in all of Albania.

Where to stay near Gjipe beach

First things first, a place to sleep. I was traveling with a large group of girls. We decided to stay at Hotel Sarajet e Pashait 1. It’s a simple hotel with a swimming pool, sea views and a beach right out front. We also were able to park there and access the rest of the Dhermi area with ease – particularly Gjipe beach. It’s not the closest hotel to Gjipe beach, but we also explored some areas more north and loved being right on the main beach.

About Gjipe beach

Gjipe canyon

The climbing routes at Gjipe beach line the mouth of a limestone canyon. The canyon itself is relatively unexplored and takes visitors on an exciting trek from end to end. The entire trek is quite treacherous and you need to carry some climbing equipment and preferably be able to rappel, so we chose to skip this time around.

Gjipe beach

The beach itself is one of the most beautiful and least crowded of the Albanian Riviera. I certainly preferred it over any of the other beaches we visited. You can rent a beach chair and umbrella for about half the price of Dhermi, 500 lek (about €4). The water is an icy blue and warm enough to spend hours in. If you swim to the left you’ll find intricate caves and points to jump off. If you go to the right you’ll be greeted by tiny white and colorful fish swimming around hundreds of tiny sea urchins. I’d never seen anything like it before. Even if you’re coming to Gjipe beach to climb, definitely pack your snorkel gear.

Facilities at the beach

There are also a few restaurants serving fresh fish, bars and a campsite all open during summer. If I were to visit again, I’d consider staying at the campsite. The people were so friendly and the location is hard to beat. Waking up under the stars with such easy access to the beach is a summer dream.

Gjipe beach approach

The only way to approach Gjipe beach is to hike. It’s definitely best to rent a car and park in the big lot about 1.5 miles (2.5 km) off the main road. Otherwise, you can take the bus and walk the entire way or plan to camp for a few days.

A very friendly parking attendant monitors the lot, so your car is safe. He charges about €2, give or take. It really depends who you are and how busy the lot is. We arrived early and each day he seemed to charge us less and less.

From the lot, the hike to the beach is about thirty minutes. The entire journey is downhill. You are fully exposed to the sun, so definitely pack your sunscreen and plenty of water. On your left side is the forest and on your right is the bright blue sea. The walk gets prettier and prettier as you approach the beach.

Once you arrive, follow the trail towards the camping area. The first of the sectors is just behind here while the rest are deeper in the canyon. If you walk beyond the camping towards the right, you’ll find your way.

Gjipe beach topos

There is no climbing book on Albania quite yet, but our new friends mentioned one seems to be in the works. This is the information and topos we received from Rock Tirana, the only climbing gym in Albania.

On the topos you’ll see seven sectors. The Mare sector, the one facing the beach, was unfortunately removed by one of the beachside restaurant owners in 2019. The only bolts that remain are rusted, so definitely don’t do any sport climbing there.

Climbing at Gjipe beach

We chose to stick with the easier sectors and mostly climbed at Ahorn, towards the very back of the canyon, and Garten Eden, towards the very front. The beauty of Gjipe beach is the routes range in difficulty from 4b – 8b. There are about 30 bolted routes, but the area has plenty of space for more.

Tips for climbers

Sun

The sun is relatively strong during summertime in Albania. The rock is limestone so the lighter parts don’t heat up too quickly whereas the darker parts do become a bit warm to the touch, but still climbable. Ahorn was shaded for most of the day. It’s tucked behind a big tree that blocks the sun. Garten Eden had afternoon sun on the crag, but the belayer was always safe beneath the tree leaves. Pack your sunscreen and plenty of water.

Safety

The bolts were stable and none of the routes we wanted to climb were rusted. At the top, you had a great view overlooking the sea from one angle and peeking into the canyon from another.

There is nowhere to rent or borrow equipment nearby. There are also no climbing schools or teachers in the area. You are pretty much on your own. We visited three days in a row and only saw one other group of climbers. It was amazing to have the space to ourselves but also came with risks. A lot of the routes hadn’t been climbed recently and there were a few unstable holds, mosquito nests and spider webs.

Insect and plant life

This might’ve been the worst part of climbing at Gjipe beach for me. Mosquitos were everywhere! Another surprise was the rash and bubbly scratches we both had all over our legs. After scouring the web, we believe it was poison sumac. Definitely be on the lookout. The area is highly wooded and not well maintained.

That’s it for climbing at Gjipe beach. But I wrote some more about the other beautiful beaches and places we visited in Albania, including Ksamil and Kodrra Saranda.

Where to stay near Gjipe beach