On day two in Baños, we decided to bike the infamous Ruta de las Cascadas from Baños to Pailón del Diablo. I had read a few blogs and was confident we could find our way independently, rather than join a tour group. I’m happy we chose this option, as we were able to spend as much or as little time as we wanted at each destination and really enjoy the full day. Ruta de las Cascadas wound up being one of our favorite activities in Ecuador. It also happens to be one of the cheapest, costing us just $26.50 per person all inclusive. And we splurged, you could definitely complete it for half of that, and equal the fun.

Duration

We went to the bike shop at around 9:15 am and returned by truck at around 3:15 pm, six hours total. We took our time and really saw a lot, you could definitely manage to do the route more quickly if you had afternoon plans or prefer to start later in the day, but I wouldn’t recommend it.  

Bike rental

To start, we went to Geotours to rent our bikes for the day. Bike rental was $10 per person and included a map, helmets, tire patch kit, pump and lock. The man also explained to us what route to take, what to avoid and where we could go for a swim. We tested our bikes in front of the shop and we were off. Mine was too big and he helped me with a smaller one, great for shorties!

Biking Ruta de las Cascadas

I had read a few horror blogs explaining how scary the roads are and how the author would have rather jumped out of a plane than bike this route again. Now, keep in mind I have lived in Amsterdam for seven years and am very comfortable on a bike, but in general, the route was not that scary. 

The start of the route is the hardest part. After leaving Baños, you start to descend downhill, picking up quite some speed before crossing the river. We were lucky during this portion, there was not a lot of traffic and I loved feeling the wind in my face. Soon after leaving Baños, you need to pass through a one-way motorway tunnel. The man at Geotours recommended taking up the whole lane so that no one tries to pass you. For all the other tunnels, there are picturesque bike paths that hug the cliffs, enabling you to relax and just enjoy the views. No cars!

Is biking Ruta de las Cascadas dangerous?

Now I’m not going to lie, there were a few other moments where the curves were blind and my adrenaline was pumping as oncoming buses passed and trucks quickly approached behind me, beeping their horns and warning me to hug the line. Dirt, rocks and bugs sometimes flew into my face causing some alarm and discomfort. But all in all, I felt completely safe during the ride. There were many other bikers and it feels like the drivers in these parts are very aware that they need to share the road. There are plenty of signs signaling them to do so as well. 

However, if you are not a confident biker, a bike tour or an alternative way to see the Ruta de las Cascadas might be best. 

Cascada Manto de la Novia

We stopped our bikes to admire the views and take some photos at each waterfall we saw. At Cascada Manto de la Novia, the man at Geotours had recommended we stop to take the cable car across the river. There are many of these cable cars, suspension bridges, ziplines and canopies along the route, so choose the one you like best. 

The Cascada Manto de la Novia was a good option as this particular cable car goes directly over the waterfall across the river. We stepped into the rickety cable car and the man informed us that he’d stop the car in the middle of the gorge so we’d have the opportunity to take photos. I was decently terrified. We sat there a moment too long, allowing the car to sway back and forth in the fierce wind. The car continued to move across the wire to the other side, where we stood directly above the waterfall before ricocheting back to the base. 

The ride lasted 5-10 minutes and cost $2 per person.

Pailon del Diablo waterfall park

From there, we followed the signs towards Rio Verde, passing many more beautiful views along the way. The last official stop, and where you can also hitch a ride back to Baños, is Pailon del Diablo waterfall park. After crossing the river at the edge of the town of Rio Verde, you’ll see the Principal Entrada (entrance) to the waterfall park. Don’t be fooled by some of the earlier signs in town, these routes take you to a few viewpoints and cafés, but not the actual park. Luckily, there were some nice men in town who directed us in the right direction. Continue past the town to the very end just before the road bends, that’s the entrance.

Go behind the waterfall

The Pailon del Diablo waterfall is the most popular in the area. The name means the Devil’s Cauldron. It’s named this for it’s sheer size and impressive power. Park your bike by the main road. After passing the Principal Entrada, walk for a while through little shops and stalls and later a forest. Eventually, you’ll come to the main entrance. There, you pay $2 per person and are granted entry to the extensive park. Follow the signs to the right and be sure to continue into the cave and later the small landing behind the waterfall. Warning, you’ll get soaked but likely dry off quickly, making the laughs worth it. 

Visit the suspension bridge

After that, head to the other side of the restaurant to walk across the suspension bridge. you’ll get an even better view of the mammoth waterfall and rapids from afar. 

See the river Pastaza rapids

And finally, before leaving, make a right turn just to the side of the park exit. From here, you can wander down a path that will take you to the river Pastaza. It’s a good place to either enjoy a snack or take a little break before heading back to Baños or continuing on. Beware though, the route back to the parking lot is all uphill. Definitely bring some water and take your time. 

Visiting the park took about one hour and cost $2 per person. 

Note: we left the park at exactly noon on a Friday. At that time, the park started to get very crowded with local groups of school children and other tour buses from Baños. I’d highly recommend arriving before 11 am to avoid the crowds. 

Empanadas at Aroma y Sabor de Mercedes

Rather than pack a lunch, stop here. The empanadas at Aroma y Sabor de Mercedes top the list of foods we ate in Ecuador. I’ll be dreaming about these empanadas for a long time to come. We were in heaven from the first bite. The crust was crisp, flaky, and soft all at once and the fillings were perfectly flavorful.

The empanadas cost $2-2.50 each. Honestly, the deal of the century and one of the best foods I’ve eaten in 2023.

I loved them so much, I shared a whole post about them.

Cascada El Rocio Machay

The man at Geotours also recommended that after Pailon del Diablo we continue to Cascada El Rocío de Machay to take a dip. That’s right, time for a swim! The bike ride is only six minutes, but after that you need to hike a long way to the falls. It’s a beautiful walk through the jungle and down zigzagged wooden stairs and ramps for most of the way. 

When you get closer, you can hear the falls in the distance before reaching a viewpoint. I have to say, this waterfall was my favorite of the bike ride. The water dramatically cascades over the cliff above and showers down forcefully all at once, like a rain shower. I loved admiring the power. 

Swimming at Cascada El Rocio Machay

After the bottom of the stairs, you cross a small suspension bridge to access the falls. Then, continue down a path to the right to access the swimming area. When we were there there was just another group of three and one man on his own. We basically had a private waterfall for the afternoon. The sun surprised us with some quick visits and the water wasn’t as cold as we had expected. The perfect way to end the Ruta de las Cascadas. 

The entrance to Cascada El Rocío de Machay cost $1.50 per person and we spent about one hour there. Had the weather been a bit warmer, I could have stayed all afternoon. This was my favorite stop during the Ruta de las Cascadas by far.  

Truck ride back to Baños

After Cascada El Rocio Machay, we looped back to Pailon del Diablo. There, we hopped in the back of a truck to hitch a ride back to Baños for $3 per person. We were told the price can cost anywhere from $3-6 depending on the number of passengers. During the bumpy ride, I was shocked by how far we had biked. It hadn’t felt nearly that long! 

Total costs for Ruta de las Cascadas

• Bike rental from GeoTours $10 per bike including map, helmets, tire patch kit, pump and lock

• Cable car over Río Pastaza at Cascada Manto de la Novia: $2 per person

• Entrance to Pailon del Diablo waterfall park: $2 per person

• Lunch at Aromas y Sabores de Mercedes: $8 per person

• Entrance to Cascada El Rocío de Machay: $1.50 per person

• Truck ride back to Baños: $3 per person

Reminder to bring cash! Ecuador uses $USD. Looking for more tips for a trip to Ecuador? Start here.