Andalusia is a part of Spain that I always associate with warmth, sunshine and beaches. Never in my wildest dreams did I imagine that I would be skiing in Sierra Nevada. Just the weekend prior I darned my bikini at the beach!
Sierra Nevada is a short 45 minute ride from Granada.The easiest way to get to Sierra Nevada is by bus. The bus company that runs the route from Granada to Sierra Nevada is called Autocares Bonal. During the ski season, buses depart for Sierra Nevada from the central bus station in Granada Monday through Friday at 8 am, 10 am and 5 pm. On weekends and holidays, there is also a bus at 3 pm. The buses return from Sierra Nevada to Granada from the Pradollano parking lot Monday through Friday at 9 am, 4 pm and 6:30 pm. On weekends and holidays there is an additional bus at 1 pm.
You can purchase your tickets to Sierra Nevada at any Alsa ticket counter or ticket machine in the Granada bus station. The cost for a round trip ticket is €9 and you do not need to specify when you will return. If you prefer to buy a one way ticket these cost €5. There is always more than one bus departing at the same hour so make sure your ticket correlates with your bus number. The numbers will be displayed on the windshield of the bus. The buses line up at the far left end of the Granada bus station. You cannot buy tickets online and during peak season it is possible that the tickets will sell out!
The Sierra Nevada Ski Station is the most southerly ski resort in all of Europe. Sierra Nevada is also the highest mountain in continental Spain. From the center of Granada, you can see the snow capped mountains in the distance. Sierrra Nevada is a whole lot more than just a beautiful backdrop to Granada. The Sierra Nevada Ski Station is open year round for various activities including hiking, horseback riding, and cycling. But the main attraction is of course, the ski season. The ski season can last from November through May weather permitting.
Sierra Nevada has over 60 miles of downhill skiing with 22 lifts and 126 trails. Additionally, there is a recreational area with an ice rink, ski bikes, toboggans, and sledding for children… or the child inside us all. Sierra Nevada is not only a mountain. There are large ski resorts and a small ski village nestled into the slopes. There are plenty of restaurants to enjoy churros and chocolate or traditional Spanish tapas.
I visited Sierra Nevada the first weekend in March on a beautiful 61°F day. On the bus ride to the resort I was slightly nervous that there would be no snow…I was overjoyed to find plenty of the white stuff.
First, my two English friends (first time skiers) and I found the ticket counter. In typical Spanish fashion, what appeared to be an organized line turned into nothing more than organized chaos. Arguments in line, people with one family member in each line, and always the few playing the “I was here first” game. After an hour or so of waiting with completely full bladders, we were able to buy our tickets. A 1 day ski pass during peak season costs €45. If you purchase your tickets online there are different deals available throughout the year.
Next stop, ski rental. In New England renting skis for a day costs upwards of $70. In Sierra Nevada, €9.95! I was stunned! There are countless shops selling the same skis for different prices, so as always, shop around until you find the best deal (9.95 was the best we found). Renting is easy and the salesmen are friendly. Ski fitting was interesting with two first time skiers. The boots are always the worst part. One couldn’t feel her foot and her right leg was shaking uncontrollably while the other couldn’t walk downstairs. I knew I was in for an adventure! After some readjustments, we headed out to the slopes.
First things first, ask for a map! What we didn’t know from the get-go was that the easiest trails are actually at the top of the mountain. This means that in order to access the easiest trails you first need to take one of the two gondolas up and then another lift from there. Unfortunately, we did not discover this until two hours in. My British friends trusted me to be their ski instructor. Let’s just say, I am not qualified for the job. After a long struggle and tumble down an intermediate trail they found this out. After that first run alone, my British pals decided it was time for a lunch break at one of the many tapas restaurants in the village at the base. Fearing that my friends might poison my food, I headed back up the mountain for a few runs on my own.
I expected the slopes to be crowded and the lift lines to be long after that horrible experience at the ticket counter. I was relieved to find that I never once had to wait in line to access a lift and the trails were equally sparse. With the warm temperatures and persistent sunshine, I had my jacket unzipped and hat off for the majority of the day leaving some peculiar tan lines for the following week. A few hours later, I had worked up quite an appetite and was ready for an edible souvenir.
We stopped by the supermercado across from the Pharmacy on our way to the bus stop. For €3 and change, a little pricy, I know, I bought an artisan chocolate bar made in Granada. The small family company goes by the name of Artechoc. It reminded me of artichokes, I found this clever although I am not sure if this is what the owners are going for. Probably more like “Artisan Chocolate”. All the chocolate bars are made with local extra virgin olive oil and all natural ingredients. Most of the bars are dark chocolate with various fillings including coffee, almonds, orange, and my choice, dried figs. The chocolate bars and other snacks are located in the last aisle towards the back of the market.
Despite the tumbles (more like face plants) my friends endured, we loved skiing in Sierra Nevada. We made it back to Granada exhausted, sunburned, and most importantly, alive. We all agreed it was well worth the trip to Sierrra Nevada and I hope to go back again soon!
If you want to read more about my adventures in Granada you can read here. Do you have a favorite ski resort?
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