There are so many things to do in Cassis, France, I’ve created this shortlist for the perfect weekend or long weekend getaway. I visited in June 2019, and here’s what we did.
- About Cassis
- Getting to Cassis
- Where to stay
- Where to eat
- Where to grocery shop
- Beaches nearby
- Hiking the Calanques
About Cassis
Cassis is a charming fishing village at the edge of the Côte d’ Azur. It’s often overlooked for Monaco and St. Tropez, but don’t be fooled. This colorful fishing village has a serene port with pastel buildings and quaint side streets worth a wander. The scene is backdropped by rolling hills and steep cliffs wedged between the famous Calanques de Cassis.
Getting to Cassis
We rented a car in Marseille. We wanted the flexibility to go wherever we please and to make sure we could check off all the things to do in Cassis. If you’re only spending a weekend, you don’t really need a car for most activities. You can get there by train from Gare de Saint-Charles in Marseille. It’s a 20-minute journey and costs €6. Cheap! It’s a bit of a walk from the train station into town, but you can hop on a bus that drops you in front of the casino.
Where to stay in Cassis
To find an apartment with two bedrooms rather than a bedroom and a sofa bed was difficult. We chose an Airbnb perched in the hills just off the main road. It was a quick elevator ride and a 10-minute walk (down a very steep hill) into town. From the balcony, we had an incredible sunset view. Our host, Ludovic, couldn’t have been more accommodating and it was the perfect home base for all the things to do in Cassis.
Where to eat in Cassis
One of the most exciting things to do in Cassis is to eat! If you have specific restaurants in mind, definitely make a reservation. We visited at the end of June and on Saturday night we were turned away from five restaurants because they were fully booked.
Eat fish at D’une rive à l’autre
We accidentally ended up at D’une rive à l’autre, a Lebanese restaurant. We were on our way to La Goccia d’Olio, around the corner. It turned out to be a happy mistake. A Lebanese menu with a Provencal twist. The fish selection changes daily depending on what the fishermen bring in. Three of us chose the dorado. It was served whole with Lebanese seasoning and a lemon wedge. They also had a curious selection of Lebanese wines alongside local names. This was the best meal we had in Cassis. I’d certainly visit again.
Enjoy the view at La Nonna D’oro
There’s a bustling ambiance at La Nonna D’oro. We chose to dine here for the sunset views. It’s a French restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. They have set menus and a la carte options. We all went for a 3-course set menu. The fried oysters were delectable and the fish course was also tasty. I found my sea bass tartare flavorless and disappointing. All in all, it’s not five-star dining, but the view made for an enjoyable evening.
Eat ice cream at Maison Casalini
Maison Casalini is a small chain glacier that uses local ingredients. They have both fruity and decadent flavors as well as vegan options. It stands front and center overlooking the port, so as you may expect, it’s pricier than the other glaciers but worth it. Skip the milkshakes as they overcharge and underdeliver, and go for a cone – two scoops.
Other restaurants to try in Cassis
A few other recommendations from friends and locals:
- La Stazione – an Italian restaurant in one of the main squares
- Restaurant Le Bonaparte – fish on one of the narrower streets behind the port
- Divino – a casual wine bar locals frequent
Where to grocery shop in Cassis
L’Amour du Pain for pastries and bread
Since we had a few early mornings, we frequented L’Amour du Pain bakery. It’s a boulangerie and patisserie. They open early and serve coffee and tea, unlike many of the other bakeries in town. Very average pain au chocolat and croissants. We tried a few of the pizzas and savory baked items and again, average. The convenience definitely kept us coming back.
Terroir et Marée for fish and meat
In the same plaza is an upscale market, Terroir et Marée. There are a seafood and butcher bar as well as some speciality items like pasta, cheese, prepared foods and wine. We decided to cook one night and picked up our protein and pasta here. The prices seemed high at first, but this is mostly because we’re American and struggle to understand weight in grams. We wound up spending far less than we would’ve if we’d gone out.
Manoubi for fruits and veggies
Last stop, Manoubi. This is a cute grocer with fresh fruit and vegetables. I couldn’t get enough of the peaches, nectarines, plums and apricots. One of the most beautiful heads of red leaf lettuce I’d ever seen cost only €1 and the tomatoes were larger than my head.
Beaches in Cassis
Plage du Corton
One of the most obvious things to do in Cassis is visit the beach. The first on our list was Plage du Corton. You can easily get here from the Parking Corton. It’s a one in, one out situation. We waited about 10 minutes before we could enter the lot. The beach is very small and pebbled. At one end is a small shack where you can eat a cheap meal or get a bottle of rose to enjoy seaside. It’s about an eighth the price of eating at La Villa Madie, the fine dining restaurant overlooking the plage.
Plage du Bestouan
Unfortunately, when we visited, swimming was not allowed at Plage du Bestouan. It’s too bad because the beach was far prettier than Plage de la Grande Mer.
Plage de la Grande Mer
This is the main beach you can access by foot from the port. It’s a sandy beach and though it’s not the most beautiful, it’s accessibility has its perks. We only stopped here briefly one evening to enjoy the last of the sun.
We also explored and preferred two of beaches at the Calanques – Calanque de Port Pin and Calanque d’En-Vau.
Hiking the Calanques from Cassis
If you only have one or two days, definitely prioritize the hike over other things to do. From the Port de Cassis we followed the red and white trail markers behind Plage du Bestouan. After passing through residential hills, we happened upon a small drink stand and a sign indicating the trailhead. From here it was an hour and a half each way to reach Calanque d’En-Vau.
Port-Miou
On the way, you pass Port-Miou, a narrow calanque filled with sail and fishing boats. It’s a quiet place for a picnic and a swim if you don’t have time (or energy) to do the full hike.
Calanque de Port Pin
Next up is Calanque de Port Pin. To get here, you first follow a wide dirt path. It’s fully exposed to the sun so water, lots of it, and sunscreen are a definite must. As you approach Calanque de Port Pin, the trail becomes rocky and unstable. Good shoes are a must. We saw some children and older folks attempting in flip flops… it just wasn’t smart.
The calanque itself is small. Many people horde at the water’s edge. Meanwhile, there are inlets just a bit further out where you can find your own oasis to relax. From here, you can swim in the crystal blue water and explore the calanque from a different perspective. Definitely make time for a swim and rest, you’ll need it before the hike out to Calanque d’En-Vau. We spent about an hour swimming here.
After Port Pin, the trail calms down and the less adventurous, and those with kids, head back to Cassis. Do keep in mind the trail is challenging and steep at times, but it’s certainly worth it.
Calanque d’En-Vau
To get to Calanque d’En-Vau you need to descend a very steep rocky trail. It seems to keep going down and down, as you enter a canyon. After that part, the air cools down and you stroll through a forested area before approaching a pebbled beach.
At Calanque d’En-Vau, I was immediately reminded of my adventures in Railay Beach, Thailand. The sea was crystal clear, incredibly warm and the cliffs stood proud all around you. We spent another hour enjoying the views and swimming here before adventuring back to Cassis.
Other things to do in Cassis
Visit Clos Sainte-Magdeleine winery in Cassis
The Clos Sainte-Magdeleine winery is one of the few wineries open for public tours. Since they have a limited schedule, it’s best to book in advance.
The tour runs from April through September, Tuesdays through Saturdays at 11 am and 4 pm. It costs €12 per person. We chose the 4 pm slot after a long day relaxing at Plage du Corton. It’s just across the road so was a really easy afternoon.
We learned a bit about the history of winemaking in the area, the land and local people. We explored the vineyards and the cellars and finished in the tasting room. The tour took about 1 hour and was in both English and French.
Later, we had three tastings. They were very small, but we bought two bottles to take home with us.
Sailing trip from La Ciotat
We chose to spend a full day sailing. I booked a sailboat with a captain from Autre Regard directly with the owner of the boat, Lionel. Lionel was an excellent captain. A great guy with an adventurous spirit. He’s about to set sail on a world tour from France to the Caribean on this very boat.
We had very little wind, so we had to motor most of the day. Lionel showed us some more calanques further east. We stopped to swim. Lionel recommended we use the snorkel gear to explore. There were beautiful brightly colored fish and the water was warm. Afterward, we enjoyed a home-cooked French lunch prepared by his caterer paired with rose. I’d definitely recommend Lionel to anyone looking to go on a boat trip in this part of the world.
Drive the Route des Crêtes to Cap Canaille
This is not for the easily carsick or those afraid of heights. Lionel recommended we take the Route des Crêtes to return from La Ciotat to Cassis. It’s an 18 mile (29 km) journey that connects the two villages. As my mom would say, the road itself is harrowing! Just like the mountainous drives on the west coast of Mallorca. The road is narrow and steep, without any barrier protecting you from plummeting off the cliffs. The traffic goes both ways, so it can be challenging to predict what’s around the bend.
If you’re ready for a taste of adventure, definitely make the journey. The viewpoints along the way are the best in the region. If it’s evening, you can also catch the sunset at Cap Canaille, the highest sea cliff in France and perhaps all of Europe.
Hope you enjoyed all the things to do in Cassis, France.
Looking for more hotspots along the Côte d’Azur, definitely visit the more popular Monaco and St. Tropez too.
